Saturday, 9am
Just because you’re so cliched
It don’t mean you won’t get paid – stp
I’m Leaving the grocery store somewhere between 8 and 9 in the morning when the phone rings and it’s this guy I don’t know saying we’re gathering up at this place I’ve never heard of to kayak up the Wisconsin River. All I needed to do was drop off Gryphon, get my gear and drive through the wilderness some 20 plus miles to find Fox Run Rd. “Ah, by the way, we’re just about there now.”, the voice said. Ok. Sounded like I was going to skip this trip.
Luckily when I got back and looked at Mike Svob’s book, “Paddling Southern Wisconsin”, and found the map on page152 something stood out to me. When I found the boat landing on the east side of the river where the group was meeting, I realized that there was an unlabeled road on the other side of the river. “Hmmm, that seems familiar.” I thought. And it was. Somewhere on that un-named road was a boat landing. One I’d really like to find again and cut about 20 miles off my trip. So when I took off north on County Highway A I was betting I’d either find the mysterious boat landing and join the group early or I’d just miss the trip all together. Amazingly I found the landing where I had often photographed Bald Eagles in the past and would you believe it, through the trees and across the river there was the group just getting into the water! What deal that was. By the way Mike, when you update the book again drop me a line so I can show you that other boat landing.
You wouldn’t think paddling upstream on the Wisconsin River would be all the pleasant but actually the current was flowing somewhere around 2 knots or so and posed no real problem. However if you do your math and estimate that you may paddle around 4 knots average you can see that getting 5 miles up the river would take twice the time it takes on flat water. Such is the fun of a good current. To be fair 5 miles up river in current is a workout if you don’t paddle regularly, so don’t just “jump in” or you may be in for a long day.
We were paddling up toward the hydroelectric dam in Wisconsin Dells. The main reason to take this trip is to enjoy the many sandstone cliffs that made Wisconsin Dells popular long before anyone had ever heard of a “Water Park”. I’m sure the much revered Wisconsin Dells photographer H.H. Bennet would be appalled at what has become of the Dells today. Nature has certainly taken a beating under it’s current care-takers. Luckily late in the year you can still paddle the river and enjoy the Dells somewhat like it was some hundred years ago. However faux-log homes & condos are quickly replacing the tall white pines on the edge of the time-worn cliffs.
It’s a good thing that you’re energetic when you start the trip. The first couple of miles offer very little in the way of scenery other than trees and grass broken by the occasional road or house built up high on a hill. Surprisingly there are many very shallow areas along the way that grab onto your boat as you glide over and assist the current in slowing you down. On the other-hand there are a few nice rifles along the way as well. However, on the Wisconsin river conditions are changing daily and what’s there today could be totally different tomorrow. After about 4 miles we began to see the first of the cliffs begin to rise off the water. From the river the “Dells” really begin with an odd shaped Island called “sugar loaf”. Not far from there is a neat little cave or arch you can paddle through. You just need to look out for Tour Boats and D.U.C.Ks that ferry tourists through a narrow notch right next to the arch.
At this point in the trek traffic becomes the main safety issue. Even in October the river was packed with boats. Drivers of various personalities pass you on both sides no matter how tight you stay to the shore. Some are very aware of your kayak, others however toss up some mad
wakes as they roar by which is fun or terrorizing depending on your state of mind. On this day we had a pretty good time with traffic. It was busy but not mad. After a short lunch along a sandy beach some of the group headed up the next half mile to the dam that now seperates the river into “upper” & “lower” dells. The rest begain the trip back to the landing. This time with the assistance of the current.
For me the real fun of the day was watching something uniquely “Dellsy”. So how do you get a Wisconsin Dells Tour Boat unstuck? Well, you would have to pull it with a Wisconsin Dells Jet Boat wouldn’t you? Or if you need some extra umph, just get a DUCK to help. That’s pretty good entertainment!
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